As I wrote last April, it’s weird outside. Sadly, that hasn’t changed much.
Last spring DC Brau owner/founder Brandon Skall told us that DC is down two million cases of beer a year. Pre-pandemic DC moved through 6 million cases of every kind of beer brand, from Budweiser, Miller Lite, and Michelob to Public, Green City, and Raised by Wolves. That two million number rang a bell as I tuned in to listen to Jenn Litz-Kirk, Director of Content for Beer Business Daily and Craft Business Daily, describe their Beer Wine and Spirits Summit.
“Surfside… did 11 million cases last year. And who knows how many it’ll do this year… And they said something ridiculous, like, and I’m not sure if I heard this right, but that they missed out on like two million cases worth of sales last year, just from out of stocks and that sort of thing. It just speaks to, I know you’re talking about how beer has been in decline, but these spirits RTDs [ready to drink canned cocktails] acting a lot like beer and coming up basically practically overnight, you know, over the last couple of years, millions of cases,” Litz-Kirk said.
For those unaware, Surfside is a brand of ready-to-drink (RTD) product made with vodka, tea, and lemonade and packaged in 355ml cans. Now that we’ve gotten that out of the way let me address the absurdity of one brand killing DC’s beer market. Surfside was founded in 2022. Mayor Muriel Bowser’s stay-at-home order came in March of 2020. Skall’s timing checks out when he says “when the pandemic hit” DC went from a 6 million case town to a 4 million case town. So the timelines don’t exactly add up. And Surfside is sold nationally, whereas DC’s pre-pandemic 6 million cases refer only to beer, both macro and micro brewers, in the city.
We’re not yet three months into the new year and are experiencing ups and downs. Highs and lows. Openings, anniversaries, and closures. The Brew Shop in Arlington turned 10! Port City Brewing Company turned 15! And in two months, DC Brau will turn 15 too. Please go support these institutions, purveyors of local beer culture. The Brewer’s Art made it to 30, having opened in 1996, but sadly they’re no longer in business. A massive win for Arlington’s small business owners, Julie Drews and Beth Helle, but a massive hit to a brewpub institution from the class of ‘96.
When I popped into Port City last week, I wished owners Bill and Karen Butcher my sincere congratulations. Alex Lynch of Mieza Blendery was there, though admittedly more for the tacos than to see this writer. Still, it was remarkable to have the oldest brewery in Alexandria (Port City) and the youngest (Mieza) in the same place at the same time. Lynch could’ve run himself ragged toiling away in his brewery to the wee hours, but he chose to get some sustenance instead. The classic small business owners’ case where feeding yourself is counterproductive to all of the productivity you could get done if you just sacrificed personal health for your company’s health.
My heart goes out to The Brewer’s Art employees who found out their last day was actually the last day they worked. I also notice the sentiment online building against Volker Stewart, owner of The Brewer’s Art. And while there is a legitimate cause to be upset, I would posit that finding out via text message is better than showing up to the front door being locked and a “sorry” note on it. A terrible way to start what you thought was going to be your last day at a brewpub, and yet this happened across multiple locations of Iron Hill last September.
“I know how hard Volker has fought to keep the business alive, and I know how much he cared for the people who worked for him and for the community he served. I’m proud of my five years at the Brewer’s Art and I have nothing but respect for Volker and for all that he has achieved at the Brewer’s Art,” former brewer Steve Jones wrote in a post on social media.
Despite the vitriol I’ve seen online, not one commenter has mentioned the landlord. I don’t have substantive news to share but just as our rent is due, the small business’ is due to their landlord. I know the cost of childcare. I know the cost of elder care. And while missing wages are inexcusable, I would rather not have to pay a nurse or a licensed childcare professional if I was not working that day. So perhaps there is some merit in letting your staff know, even though reporting says the staff were blindsided by the closing.
Update, 2/18: Baltimore Banner has seen court filings and reports that “Stewart loaned the business $632,000 and did not take wages over the past two years, a loss of more than $160,000.”
My neighbor is a chef who works for one of the 2025 Michelin starred restaurants in DC. While removing snowcrete from our walks, I asked him how business was. Fine. I asked him if he’s worried he’ll have to find another gig? Nah. We’re good. And then I said it’s rough out there for restaurants, brewpubs, and breweries. He said “oh yeah… for breweries.” His pregnant pause was loud. Did he think I currently worked at a brewery? I haven’t since 2020. And while I do consult with breweries from time to time, did he put emphasis on how hard it is for breweries for any particular reason? I mentioned The Brewer’s Art closing, and he lamented that it’s a really tough time and knowing what to do in the situation is sometimes even harder. Do you let your staff know two weeks in advance, he opined, because then you can’t staff your restaurant and you could lose money.
I think it’s impossible if you have a heart not to feel bad for the staff at The Brewer’s Art. I contributed, and I’d encourage you to do so as well should you find you have the financial standing.
